The first outing in dog boots looks pretty much the same for almost every dog: stiff steps, paws lifted absurdly high and a look that asks what on earth this is about. Our Vico lifted his first boots like a stork wading through tall grass. That is not a sign your dog will never accept boots. It just means the feeling on the paws is unfamiliar. With the right introduction, most dogs wear their winter boots after a few days as if nothing had changed.
Why it pays to start the training now
Whether your dog needs boots at all depends on the paws, the routes and the weather. You will find the basics, including instructions for measuring, in our guide Does my dog need boots in winter?. In short: road salt, grit and icy paths are hard on sensitive paws, and that is exactly when a well-fitting boot pays off.
The best time to start the training, however, is not the first day of snow but now, while the paths are still dry. If you only start practising once it is already frozen outside, you expose your dog to two new stimuli at once. If you practise calmly at home over the next few weeks, the boots will be routine by the first frost.
No training works without the right size
Before you start practising, the size has to be right. Boots that are too big slip and twist while walking, boots that are too small pinch, and either one puts your dog off faster than any training can make up for. Measure the paw while your dog is standing normally, without the claws, and compare the measurement with the size chart on the product page.
Our SnowStep winter boots come as a set of four in sizes S to XL, with a waterproof upper, warm plush lining and a non-slip sole. The adjustable Velcro strap is handy for training: you can put the boots on and take them off in seconds, so no practice session turns into a test of patience.
Getting used to wearing boots, step by step
Plan several short sessions over a few days instead of one long one. Five minutes that end well achieve more than half an hour that ends in frustration.
- Let your dog get to know the boots: Put the boots on the floor and let your dog sniff them. Add a treat, nothing more. From the very start, the boots should signal something good.
- One boot, a few seconds: Put a single boot on one front paw, reward immediately and take it off again before your dog starts tugging at it.
- Increase wearing time and distract: Extend the wearing time gradually and keep your dog busy in the meantime, for example with a small food search or a short game. Once moving, the unfamiliar feeling on the paw quickly fades into the background.
- All four paws: Once one boot goes on without fuss, add the other three one by one. Let your dog walk around the flat in them, feed treats in between and end the session while your dog is still relaxed.
- First walk outside: Choose a short, familiar route without any excitement. There is so much to smell and see outside that the boots are usually forgotten after just a few metres.
These mistakes make it hard for your dog
Most setbacks in boot training have the same causes. Going too fast is top of the list: putting all four boots on the first day and heading out for a long walk overwhelms many dogs. Another classic is a Velcro strap that is too loose. If the boot sits too loosely, it twists while walking, and that is exactly what feels uncomfortable to the dog. Tighten the strap so that the boot sits securely without cutting in.
Well-meant reactions can also slow things down. If you take the boots off straight away every time your dog walks stiffly, your dog learns one thing above all: walking stiffly makes the boots go away. Stay calm instead, distract your dog and only end the session in a relaxed moment.
Out and about: what to look out for
On the first few walks, check after a couple of minutes that all the boots are still sitting properly. After the walk, give the paws a quick check and dry them off, and let the boots dry open before they go back into use. For dogs with larger paws, or as a lighter option for the shoulder season, our Dog Booties with a non-slip rubber sole are an alternative, covering sizes S to XXL. You will find more models and everything to do with paw protection in the Dog boots & paw protection collection.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take for a dog to accept boots?
That varies a lot. Some dogs walk normally after two or three short practice sessions, while sensitive dogs need one to two weeks of daily mini sessions. Let your dog set the pace and end every session on a good note.
My dog walks strangely in the boots. Is that a problem?
The stork walk at the beginning is a completely normal reaction to the unfamiliar feeling and disappears in most dogs with a bit of movement and distraction. Still, take a moment to check the size and fit of the boots. If your dog still seems very stressed after several sessions, take a step back in the training and practise in smaller portions.
Does my dog need the boots even without snow?
On dry, mild paths usually not. They make sense above all with road salt, grit and ice, and for sensitive paws. If your dog already has cracked pads or an injury on the paw, have it looked at by your veterinary practice first before putting a boot over it.
